Last update: December 22, 2024
Hike from Cornudella de Montsant to Siurana
During our summer 2018 in Barcelona we did a couple of out of town trips and discovered beautiful areas in Catalonia. As Michael read how amazing the Priorat area was supposed to be we decided to rent a car and drive there on a Saturday and find out on our own.
So about a 1:45 hours drive to the South of Barcelona, not too far from Tarragona, we arrived to the comarca (county) of Priorat that is only scarcely populated. The region of about 500 square kilometres (approx. 200 square miles) has only 9.500 inhabitants spread among 23 villages. So you can imagine that all of those villages are pretty small being the biggest with Falset (2.800 inhabitants). The region is especially known for its high quality wines certified under D.O.Q. Priorat and under D.O. Montsant. Also the olive oil production is important economic sector.
I had found a wonderful aerial foto on the internet when researching where to go, so Siurana would be our final destination: a little village on the top of a mountain platform. As it was possible to hike up the mountain, we decided to leave the car in Cornudella de Montsant – 1:15 hours walking distance.
The walk led us through vineyards, a nearly empty reservoir, over hills and in the end up the steep old Moorish road to the little village. Donkeys and horses used to climb up that stony road.
Siurana is a village with a history of more than 1000 years. Within her medieval boundaries only 30 people are actually living there. It used to be a strategic watch post with a castle on top guarding the whole area. It was also the last stronghold of the Moors before they were driven out of Catalonia about 800 years ago.
We had 3-course lunch in the middle of the village before we discovered the rest of Siurana such as the church and the amazing views around.
The photo below shows the amazing panoramic view you can have in Siurana. The village is located on a platform on top of a mountain. The cliff is about 300 meters high. The rock formation in on the right is very popular among professional climbers. Priorat ranks among the best climbing areas in the whole world due to the many excellent climbing sites with a high degree of difficulty.
The church of Siurana
High on top of the mountain platform, you can find the church of Siurana dating back to the 12th century. It was built in Romanesque style and is located just a few meters away from a 240 meters cliff.
It was officially mentioned in a papal document on March 25, 1154. As already mentioned, the village was of strategic importance with its castle on top to guard the surrounding area. With the construction of a Christian church in Siurana the re-christianization of Catalonia was finally completed.
Above the church portal you can find a semicircular tympanum showing the crucified Christ in its middle. On both sides of his head are the sun and moon as a sign of his universal rule and – as sovereign symbols – two lions. Below the stretched arms you will see the apostles.
Most of the windows are only cut into the wall but there is also the beautiful stained-glass window above. The church itself is made of precisely cut stones.
Christian’s Ritual
Though I am not religious one of my rituals is to light a candle when visiting a new church. Since my childhood I have been used to do that together with my grandmother, especially when being on our many Italy holidays with the whole family. She is 90 now and will soon come to Barcelona again where I am sure I will find another church where we both can light a candle as we did 30 years ago.
Conclusion
The hike was of medium difficulty. You need to be in a decent shape as the path is up- and downhill with a steep finish. In warmer months it is important to bring sufficient water as you will walk often in the sun. Park your car in Cornudella de Montsant and start your adventure.
For wine lovers this is the perfect region. In every village you can taste and buy wine accompanied by food if you like. Priorat is the only other wine region next to La Rioja with a high quality label D.O.Q. – Denominació d’Origen Qualificada. Its wine making history goes back as far as the 12th century. In the village of Cornudella de Montsant you will find a wine cooperative that is worth visiting. Buy your olive oil there!
We will certainly come back and stay a weekend in this beautiful region in the near future!
Update December 2024: Since 2018 we have been back many times. Whenever friends and family come and visit us in Barcelona we would spend a day in Siurana. We have spend also a night in a wonderful wine hotel and visited the fascinating ruins of a Carthusian monastery.
PS: My grandmother is now 96 and still running strong!
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